I used the "U" shaped pieces of plywood described in Nick's book and spring clamps. Actually I used "L" shaped pieces since the bottom part just got in the way. I stapled the shear and keel strips, all others I used the clamps. In a few places I used the tie down straps I tie my canoe down to my truck with.

You just have to be careful using the clamps since it is a little harder to get the strip to lie against the form. Complex designs can also be harder if you are bending wood very much.

George suggested at the time using staples after turning the chine on the hull. Once I got to this flat area I found the clamps held real well and I could do 2 or 3 strips at a time, so I avoided the staples.

Avoiding staples takes MUCH longer than using them. I suspect that even time spent filling holes does not come close to the amount of time spent waiting for glue to dry with the clamps.

> I hope nobody minds my asking, but what is the point in using staples to
> save building time, only to spend all that saved time figuring out ways to
> hide the holes...? I read about the clamping method in Nick's book-does
> this method work? I was hoping to use it but if everyone is trying to fill
> in the holes then it would seem that any staple-less method does not work.
> I saw a post where one used bicycle tubes. What other methods are there
> that clamp the strips while the glue dries yet leave no *unsightly* scars?
> Thanks.