After seeing how my last few posts were scrambled, I can only apologize - my indents,tabs, and line returns don't seem to translate. These notes do have a little bit of organization to them. Before I proceed to End grabs,- a couple of things occurred to me last night: 8)Secret Hatches: Because of the pattern that strips set up, I think that it would be fairly easy to hide a hatch cover that breaks along the join lines between adjacent strips. Any location that strips stop abruptly is a good candidate for locating. (Examples are the front or rear of any ordinary flush hatch, the front or rear of any cockpit using a recessed rim (more on another post), other locations depending on the particular kayak your're designing or building.) At your chosen location cut out 3 (or so) adjacent strips 6" or so but stagger their lengths so when you put them back they will blend into your deck pattern, strip pattern or use random pattern. Build a slightly UNDERsized box below the open slot. Angle edges of slot strips. Glue reverse angled edges to outside edges of the 3 (glued together) strips. This is now a hatch cover that slides in place. Kinda hard to see if you plan it right. If you design one fairly small, this might be a way of dealing with a day hatch. Or a little guy for your keys, cards or stash. Not your wallet, though - might get damp. Me - I like to conceal muh piece so I can deal with all them thar pesky sea critters!!(this is a joke - I don't have a piece!) 9)A Really Dumb Aside: I know, I know, I know, I know - but what about a cupholder??? Right in front of you where you can grab it. Think about all those times you've been paddling like hzll, the conditions aren't too good, and your scared to pop your skirt for the water bottle. Me - I go nowhere without a can of hi-test!

So now, continuing on away from hatch considerations, here are a coupla ways of better dealing with end grabs. Several problems with end grabs as I've seen and read to date are: -A looped tie is dangerous to your hand, fingers etc. -Grab should extend beyond end of kayak. (Same prob as above) -Free grabs bounce around and wreck your finish -Free grabs catch spray -They destroy your kayak aesthetic lines. I have assumed that stem and bow pieces are being used because it is easier to explain, but they are not necessary (for this). 1) For a Rigged Deck: Install all front deck fittings (lets say the webbed loops as described in the first post) except a bow fitting. 2" back under the bow, drill a 5/8" diam. hole and 4" back on top from the bow connect through to another 5/8" diam. hole. Connect as in any of the other methods described by others (dooky-smutz drilled, toe jam or hose). Cut or grind (sand, carve) away the upper 4" of the STEM piece. Put a slot or notch in this area (vertical, centred, right where stem removed). Carve an interesting (Auk, Loon, or Guillemot) 4" long figurehead or mermaid to fit the missing stem piece and to partially fit the notch or groove. Attach 1/2" (?) rope to the middle of the figurehead (or plain) "stem piece". Push free end of the rope thru the hole and affix a stop that won't pull out. (Design it to be unobtrusive and fit your boat!) Then attach a small loop at this extreme end (best to integrate both) and pass the bungee rigging through it. So now you have: -End grab that disappears into or complements the lines of your boat -End grab that doesn't bounce around. -End grab that retracts -Extends to whatever rope length that you wish it to. -Shock system (bungee) for those unfortunate times you go swimming in big or choppy waves. note this is only for shock absorption. The rope is still stoppered. -Strong as you choose to make it. -Always at the extreme end, you don't have to scrabble around when you're in dire straits.(straights?-pun) 2)Unrigged Deck: This approach assumes a totally unrigged (or minimal rigged) deck, in which the builder/designer wishes minimized intrusions. Drill first hole, remove 4" stem, make figurehead as before. With 1/2" bungee (is there such a thing?is it strong?) or woven nylon rope w/ core replaced with surgical tubing, measure out whatever length will retract 4-5". At this length from the first hole, drill the second one - back from the top of the bow. Fit the rope with a top plug to match your strips. Sand smooth and epoxy. So now you have: -All the features as in the rigged deck end loops -End grab that with concealed attachments. 3)Variations: If the figurehead in groove approach seems to concealed to you, raise the grab slightly so that it appears like a drawer pull - but shape and fair it to your kayak lines! You could also modify it to look like a pair of brass knuckles or any were in between - a figurehead w/ gaps or holes for fingers (careful). Another fine resting location for the grab is on top of the bow. Get a plastic microphone holder and cut off the stand attachment. Screw (glue) it on top of your bow and insert the grab so you can pull it out from the front when you're swimming in the chuck! (joke - use an actual microphone and its cord, attached to your small personal amp, and when you go swimming you can really call for help!! ---or what about a hydrophone or combine it with your bow light or flashlight or....). Personally, I'd put a dovetail groove in the top strip(s) and just slide the grab in. Waves won't wash that out, unless you're going backwards! (well maybe - use a good friction fit). 4)Variation If all this seems like just too much work and you've already made your grabs - Just glue a strip of velcro down the grab and some corresponding location on the yak - stays pretty good and comes off when you need it! 5)Variation Or build an acute angle triagular grab (like a D handle), put pointiest end toward the front (this is the end for the rope), and inset or fair into the bow slightly. Fits the contours, Stops the flop, and looks good too! 6)Variation Of course, if you decide to make (fit) an internal tube for the grab rope, why not make one for the grab too? 1" diam hole, 4" long. Carve a knob, put on the end of a 4 1/2" pc of broom handle and stick it out the front!!! Or carve a nice grinning face on the knob (now it's a head). Sculpture your bosses face and ram your kayak into a rock! Me - I'd go form my DOOM face at 30% health - doesn't matter if you slip with your chisel!! Trouble is - it's a pretty good self-portrait. So I'm finished for now, but I sure wish I was a better typist. As before these are untested ideas only. My problem is that I keep looking ahead and not dealing with the issue at hand. - so see you guys way up here dealing with these issues later - I've got to get back and figger out my strongback and form approach.