Date: 2/22/1999, 10:53 pm
> When I tried to put
> the first strip along the sheer line I discovered that 7/8" width
> strip does not have enough elasticity(sp?) to follow the sheer line. I
> then cut the strip in half and ended up with a two 1/4" by 3/8"
> strips which are very flexible. I don't mind the extra work of cutting the
> board in half and rerouting the cove/bead on one side but I was wondering
> if/how much strength I am losing by using a smaller width strip. . .
There shouldn't be any significant difference in strength. This might even be stronger. With the cove and bead you are giving a lot of surface area for the glue to bond on, and some of those glues are stronger than the wood. Instead of the strips being held in a stressed position, with the fibers ready to rip loose, the fibers in YOUR strips are relased and able to give a bit in either direction. When succeeding strips are applied they serve to ensure the first strips hold their curvature.
> initial thought is that a narrow strip may not distribute the force of an
> impact as well as a wide strip.
On the one hand, if you hit something you stand a good chance that the force will rip the smaller strip, but not do as much damage to the next strip, just becasue it is a different piece of wood. Any holes formed just might be smaller and easier to fix. On the other hand, the fiberglass is going to spread that damage over a larger area though. Well, here is where those old reliable test panels go to work. Make up a few and whack at 'em with a hammer. my experience is that the wide and narrow strips are similar in strength.
> I understand the concept that the
> fiberglass provides alot of the strength but I would like to hear some
> opinions as to the pros/cons of using the smaller width. The smaller
> strips really makes the stripping alot easier as well as providing better
> joints.
Well, here is one of the pros: The stripping is easier. The con is basically that you'll put on twice as many strips. When you get to having to fit the ends that means twice the work and about 50 percent more time.
I've used 1 inch strips mixed with 1/2 inch strips where the 1 inch ones would not bend enough. If you have not ripped all yours down to the narrower size, use the wide ones where you can. Some people use thin strips from a darker or lighter wood to serve as accent colors. One more pro: the thinner strips fit over the curving surfaces better so the hull shape is rounder with less sanding. In my book anything that reduces the amount of sanding is a good thing.
It is nice to have the strips evenly balanced on the left and right sides -- and matching up at the bow and stern. With thinner strips you have more opportunities to keep things matched up, but this may mean more construction time.
More strips mean more staples. Get an extra box. The cost is not a lot more, but you'll eventually be called on to remember where you put each and every one of those staples -- cause you gotta pull 'em all out later.
Best of luck
Paul Jacobson
Messages In This Thread
- strip width?
Paul Sigmon -- 2/22/1999, 9:06 pm- Re: strip width?
Jack Sanderson -- 2/24/1999, 5:59 pm- Re: strip width?
Nick Schade - Guillemot Kayaks -- 2/23/1999, 4:32 pm- Re: strip width?
K. Morton -- 2/23/1999, 2:29 pm- Re: strip width?
Mac Buhler -- 2/23/1999, 5:46 am- Re: strip width?
Paul Jacobson -- 2/22/1999, 10:53 pm - Re: strip width?
- Re: strip width?