Date: 2/24/1999, 8:06 pm
> I've wondered from time to time about pressurizing the fore and aft
> sections as a way to increase overall strength of the boat. Cola and beer
> cans, as well as jet airliners, are much stronger when pressurized than
> when not.(Crush a full unopened can; crush it after consuming the
> contents. In aircraft, as I understand it, loss of cabin pressure is
> dangerous more because of the loss of this strength, not just the loss of
> breathing air). Even 5 to 10 psi might be enough. One could more or less
> reverse the normal hatch flange so that pressure from inside would press
> the hatch out, and into, the seal gasket. Pipeline access manways are made
> that way, in an oblong shape so that it can be removed by lowering then
> rotating.
> Then, as if to compensate, the central section of the boat could be
> reinforced with more glass to prevent the cockpit section from folding in
> extreme conditions.
> Something of a pipe dream, I know, and it would take an engineer or two to
> figure out what could be expected. I know pressure vessels generally do
> not have acute interior angles such as you'd find at the bow keel. I don't
> see any weight savings; in fact, reinforcing needs may require extra epoxy
> & glas in places it wouldn't otherwise. So, for the same weight, or
> more, maybe a stronger boat is possible.
> I'm just not sure 'WHY?' do it, except as research.
> Back to the original question:
> My Pygmy Coho instructions said to do the bulkheads and hatches AFTER the
> boat was built, so I did. And the whole time I wished I'd done it all at
> the step just before final attaching of the deck to the hull. As it was
> all pretty well shaped and fairly stiff at this point, I don't think any
> distortion would occur providing you were carefull.
> Clamping a scrap accross the sheer would hold the hull while the bulkheads
> were fitted and epoxied in place. Leave, say, a 1/8" gap on the top
> to keep it from pushing the deck up. This would leave just that one edge
> to fillet and glas from inside the boat afterwards.
> Likewise, the hatch flange installation would have been easier, as well as
> a little neater.
> On the other hand, I haven't heard of others complaining about doing it
> the way Pygmy's instructions said to. I just had trouble, particularly in
> the front, getting an arm, my head, and a lamp in there and still have
> room to move. Maybe all three are just a little too big, eh? I tried to put the bulkheads in before putting the deck on and found it to be a real pain. I wired the deck on for stablity and tried to trim and fit the bulkheads, I finally decided that it would make fitting the deck on very difficult and decided to abandon the idea. I did glue in fittings for the foot pedals with T-bolts and did not have any problems.
Messages In This Thread
- Internal stuff before I install deck?
Roger Donahe -- 2/22/1999, 2:46 pm- Re: Internal stuff before I install deck?
BillThomas -- 2/24/1999, 9:23 pm- Re: Internal stuff before I install deck?
Jack Martin -- 2/23/1999, 6:55 am- S&G and stress cracks
Brian T. Cunningham -- 3/2/1999, 11:22 pm- Re: S&G and stress cracks
steve Bradbury -- 3/3/1999, 7:18 am
- Internal stuff
Pete Roszyk -- 2/23/1999, 9:44 am- look at foldables / inflatables
Brian T. Cunningham -- 3/2/1999, 11:27 pm- Re: Internal stuff
Ray Jenkins -- 2/24/1999, 8:06 pm - Re: Internal stuff
- Re: S&G and stress cracks
- Re: Internal stuff before I install deck?
K. Morton -- 2/22/1999, 7:10 pm- Footbraces before installing deck
Shawn Baker -- 2/22/1999, 7:21 pm
- Re: Internal stuff before I install deck?
Jack Martin -- 2/22/1999, 4:36 pm- Re: Internal stuff before I install deck?
John Waddington -- 2/22/1999, 4:17 pm - Re: Internal stuff before I install deck?
- Re: Internal stuff before I install deck?