> I used Western red cedar and yellow pine as well. The boat is a bit
> heavier than if it were all cedar, but still weighs in at 43 lbs. with
> Nick's expedition layup schedule. You may save a little weight by using
> spruce for the light wood.

> One way is to establish the boundaries of your pattern before any other
> strips. These boundaries can go wherever you wish, over, under or through
> the sheerline. Eventually you will need to cut the crossing strips (if
> any) with a razor saw before you glass the inside.

> Not necessarily. The difficulty with cove and bead on the sheer is that
> the edge gets pretty badly beaten up during the process, and the
> "feathers" on the edge of the cove are particularly fragile. A
> careful job of planing that edge will result in no gaps at all, and the
> joint will not show. Some guys don't do cove and bead at all, but rather

some one else said to look at page 133 and it`s there,I guess i just took in to much to fast and for got it was there. Most people seem to be agianst useing any pine so i am glad to here for someone how did . my boat is just 11' ft. form point to point and as long as it`s not exterem i don't mind a couple extra pounds. i am getting boards cut to 7/8 so when i put the cove and bead on it shoud be 3/4 strips,i do not have the pactice to plane every strip cove and bead will work for me.
> plane all the strips on the boat. Nick used to do that, and some
> old-timers still do as well. My whole deck is 1/4" x 1/4"
> strips, planed on both sides, no coves or beads. It took a good while
> longer that way, but the graphics look better. Cove and bead on 1/4"
> or 3/8" strips, maybe even 1/2" 'ers is more trouble than it is
> worth. I'll just have to play around with the pattern to see how i want it.