> I found a canvas kayak on a firewood pile and the owner was happy to let
> me have it, since it had centimental value (she did not have the heart to
> have it hauled to the dump). It was locally built (Tomales Bay, CA)
> according to plans published in Popular Mechanics, but the owner was not
> 100% sure.

> The canvas covering was deteriorated and I already removed it. The
> framework is in great shape, only one broken frame, no rot.Though it is
> quite old, I do not think this kayak has any historical value.

> I'm having a difficult time deciding, if I should rebuild it as an
> original, or incorporate performance enhancing improvements (tweek it a
> bit)?

> wd

What I would do:

1) Fix the broken frame and measure the other frames -- or trace them -- so you can reproduce them as needed.

2) Cover the existing boat with a new canvas skin and paint it. paddle the existing boat as is.

3) Take the drawings of the forms and tweek them, using my `improvements' to make a new set of forms from which I would build an entirely new boat as a second boat.

Here is my thinking: The boat you found was basically a free gift. most of the hard work is done. Take advantage of that. do the least to fix it up, and enjoy it.

If you want something different (tweeks) you are going to have a major rebuild process. The basic structure of a skin on frame is defined by the skeleton created by the frames and stringers that connect them.

If you want to increase the length you'll need new, longer, stringers (longerons? chines? call them what you wish). If you want to increase the width you'll need to make new wider frames from scratch -- and for that it helps to have the tracings of the current ones.

If you want to make the boat narrower you will have to remove at least the center frames, trim something from them and reassemble. Since a narrower boat will sink lower in order to displace the same amount of water you may need to increase the side height at the same time. If you screw up you'll want to have the original design, or even the original frame, so you can replace things and restore performance to original specs. If you replace ONLY the center frames, the bow and stern may appear to be a bit wide in comparison. Probably this would be most noticable in the bow because you are looking at that all the time while you paddle.

In the long run, most `tweeks' will involve major rebuilds, or monr changes to most of the components -- so you might as well build from scratch and make sure things fit as desired. In the meantime, while you build your `dream boat' you'll have a functional craft to paddle and enjoy.

If you are not planning to make such major changes, I'd suggest making creature-comfort changes to the cockpit a first priority: A comfortable new seat, foot rests/pegs/peddles, etc. If you are thinking of adding a rudder, do it after you have paddled the boat a while without one.

If you are even considering a skeg, you might want to plan for one before you cover the frame. If I was DEFINITELY going to put on a skeg I'd trace the outline of the keel strip before putting on the skin, and cut a skeg to that shape (probably from 3/4 inch thick stock -- nominal 1 in. stock) Then I would put cloth on the hull and paint it with two coats of paint. I'd then attach the skeg with screws driven into it from inside the hull. When I attached the skeg I would lay a fresh coat of paint along the area where the skeg fit in order to bed it in something that would provide some resistance to water penetration. After that I would attach and paint the deck.

If I was only CONTEMPLATING attaching a skeg, before I put on the skin I would trace the curve of the keel strip on wood or cardboard and save it for future reference. I would also add a piece on the inside of the boat in roughly the area where a skeg might be attached. This piece would be thick enough (maybe an inch or an inch and a half) to hold any screws that I might use (driven from the outside) when I put on that possible skeg. If I never put on a skeg, the added weight of such a strip of wood is negligible, and its presence merely strengthens that one strip.

If I was giving any thought to attaching a rudder I might want to epoxy/screw/nail/bolt(?) some pieces of wood to the existing skeleton to provide anchors for what ever fastening devices I might use for attaching a potential rudder. These mounting strips would be under the deck skin and not seen. If you need to use them, fine, they are there. If not, fine, it is not a great amount of effort to install them and they add little weight.

Just my two cents. Hope it makes sense to you.

Paul Jacobson

By the way: Where the heck do you guys live where they throw kayak frames on junk heaps and discard them in alleys? I sure wish I had neighbors like that. Almost makes me think about putting up an ad on the local grocery store's community bulletin board offering to cart away any old boats that people might not want cluttering their garages or yards. Hmm, maybe that would work for somebody. Just an idea. pj