Date: 2/28/1999, 9:31 am
> 10 degrees Celsius is 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
> Usually the epoxy sets up (hardens) in a few hours, but develops more
> strength as it is allowed to cure. With time and heat the molecules of the
> liquid resin link together (polymerize) into a strong solid plastic.
> I'm not sure of the particulars on this particular epoxy, but if it has
> not yet set up, I think that if you can raise the temperature to 20 to 25
> degrees Celsius ( that would be 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit -- roughly
> `room temperature') then after a few hours you can take the clamps off and
> the cure will continue on its own, strengthening over time.
> To do this I's get a couple of 100 or 150 watt light bulbs and put them in
> fixtures that I could place close to the joint. I'd like them about 0.5 m
> or 18 inches above the joint. If, after 20 minutes, that doesn't warm the
> area sufficiently, move them closer. You are not going to warm the
This is just a thoght but if your working in a room or garage that can be closed off why not just use a small elec. heater till the epoxy has time to cure.
> winter's chill with something like this, but it should be enough to give
> those few added degrees.
> A cheap fixture for this is made from a lamp socket (You can usually find
> these in hardware stores for around a dollar) at the end of a length of
> electric cord. An aluminum foil pie plate, with a hole punched in the
> center, fits loosely over this. When you screw the light bulb into the
> socket the pie plate should rest loosly on the bulging areas of the light
> bulb, directing more heat and light down on your work area. Money saving
> tip: I have bought electric cord and plugs for making these devices, and
> frequently find the cost of the plug and wire adds up to more than the
> cost of an inexpensive 6 foot extension cord (which has a plug already
> molded onto one end) -- so I get the cheap extension cord, cut off the end
> with the socket(s) and replace that with a lamp socket. If you can get a 9
> or 12 foot extension cord at a reasonable cost you can put one lamp socket
> at the end, and another about a meter (3 feet) away, and make a two-light
> device for little more than a single light one.
> Hang your lights from a 2x4 supported above the area you want to warm. you
> can use sawhorses or rungs on a step ladder to achieve the desired height.
> Some string or duct tape will hold the wire in place, and the bulbs can
> dangle beneath this.
> By the way, besides being nice for spot warming, you can use these things
> -- with or without the pie plate reflectors -- to add some light to dark
> areas of the shop, or, replace the bulbs with something weaker (40 watt to
> 25 watt) and you can lower the string of lights into the dark recesses of
> the bow or stern of your boat when you want to inspect things (leaks or
> repairs), or need some added light while you attach miscellaneous hardware
> (hatch brackets, foot brackets, tie-down pads for floatbags, etc.)
> Hope this helps.
> Paul Jacobson
Messages In This Thread
- Epoxy Cure Time?
Paul -- 2/27/1999, 4:52 pm- Epoxy Cure Time VS Recoat before Amine Blush
Rick Hewitt -- 3/1/1999, 9:14 am- Rule of Thumb
Nick Schade - Guillemot Kayaks -- 3/1/1999, 9:20 am
- Re: Epoxy Cure Time?
Frank -- 3/1/1999, 8:24 am- Re: Epoxy Cure Time?
Jason Steeves -- 2/28/1999, 12:57 am- cutting epoxy setup time
Paul Jacobson -- 2/27/1999, 11:11 pm- Re: cutting epoxy setup time
Robert -- 2/28/1999, 9:31 am- Re: cutting epoxy setup time
Jim Reid -- 3/2/1999, 5:45 am
- Re: cutting epoxy setup time
- Rule of Thumb
- Epoxy Cure Time VS Recoat before Amine Blush