> I consider the seal-coat method a more careful way of doing the
> fiberglassing. It takes more time than soaking through the glass, but
> otherwise has some advantages.

> It keeps the wood from sucking the glass dry when you apply the epoxy to
> the glass. It limits the amount of outgassing. After the seal coat, you
> need to be careful about the preparation of the surface before glassing.
> You need to accertain whether the seal-coat blushed and if it did, remove
> the blush. If it did not you need to accertain whether the epoxy is fully
> cured, if it is you need to sand, if not you can apply the glass. These
> are all very doable, and you can do it on your own schedule.

> If you do not seal first, you need to monitor for dry spots and
> outgassing. This is very doable, but you need to do it on the epoxy's
> schedule.

> Which provides the "best" results, is an open question which is
> dependant on what you are trying to achieve.

Nick, I have been waiting for this discussion to come around again for quite some time. Now that it has I have one question. I understand the consern of getting dry spots when building strippers as the soft cedar sucks epoxy readily but what about Okoume plywood with its mahagony hardwood surface. Could I assume that the plywood soaks less epoxy and does so uniformally with less chance of dry spots?

Larry C.