> I am putting the finishing touch on my cedar greenland style paddle. I
> like the cedar for several reasons, but it is not the most durable wood
> around so I have decided to glass the last 6 inches or so of the blade
> (which gets the brunt of the contact with the ocean bottom, pilings, my
> bedroom wall etc. I can glass the faces pretty well but because of the
> folding properties of fiberglass (at least that which I have), I do not
> seem to be able to fold the glass from the face over onto the thin edge. I
> am thinking now that perhaps I will have to cut a very thin strip of glass
> just for the edge, but this seems a bit difficult. Just now, I was also
> thinking that perhaps, instead, I could get some thickened epoxy and form
> a pure epoxy edge, but am unsure how durable this would be. In any event,
> the transition from the base of the blade to the part that is glassed
> needs to be smooth so that I do not slash my fingers as I slide my palm
> all over this thing as one is apparently apt to do with an Inuit paddle.
> Any comments, other ideas or suggestions much appreciated.

> Thanks, Dave

Another method: sand your blade tip blunt to about 3/16" thick. Wrap sand paper around a thin pencil or use a 3/16" chainsaw file and make a cove on the blade tip so that it looks like U Wet out a piece of 3/16" nylon (braided) cord in a cup of epoxy, wipe off excess and lay the cord into the cove (U) of the tip of the blade. Push common pins through the cord to hold in place. After the epoxy hardens fair the ends into the blade with a sanding block, Next, cover the blades with 4oz. glass that covers the cord and trim off flush with the tip when epoxy sets.

The nylon wets out quite clear, adds strength and prevents fraying of tips. It can easily be replaced when it wears through.

I also use epoxied nylon loops on the underside of my deck as tie in points for securing dry bags and my hatches.

Larry C.