> There was a fellow around here who used to complain

> about the quality of instructions in kits and books,

> about the lack of knowledge about composites being shared here, and

> lots of other things

> I think he was right. I will not take his place.

> ----------------------------------------

> The best epoxy wood glue is plain epoxy - rough sand the joint surfaces
> (80 grit across the grain), let epoxy soak well into the joint surface,
> apply fresh epoxy and heat with a hair drier, clamp lightly, let cure for
> 24 hours at 70 degrees (36 hours at 60 degrees or 48 hours at 50 degrees).
> If you must ---

> Wood fiber (saw dust) makes a medium strength, sandable, medium weight,
> dark brown filler or glue.

> Glass microspheres makes a LOW strength, sandable, light weight, white
> filler - NOT a glue.

> Phenolic microspheres make a LOW strength, sandable, light weight,
> purple(?) filler - NOT a glue.

> Cab-o_Sil makes a medium strength (brittle), not sandable, medium weight,
> transparent filler - NOT a glue.

> Glass fibers (1/32" to 1/4") makes a high stength, sandable,
> heavy weight, transparent filler or glue.

> Cotton fibers make a medium strength, sandable medium weight,
> transparent(?) filler or glue.

Dan. I'am confused. Both West system and system Three in there technical manuals describe the use of cab-o-sil as a thickener recommended for bonding and gluing. West's rates only the glass fibers as better. System three mentions that the viscosity of mixed epoxy is not high enough to make a good adhesive. They also recommend the use of cab-o-sil for gluing. Who is right here?

Larry C.

PS/ Where is Kern Hendrick when you need him?