> CLC boats typically spec out epoxy endpours at the bow and stern,
> providing a solid mass through which a hole is bored to carry bow and
> stern loops of light line. Not sure I'm crazy about the idea cosmetically,
> but I value having some sort of fitting for tie downs and for recovery of
> the boat in bigger water --- not that I ever get tossed out in surf, or
> anything. But grab loops pose some serious safety hazzards in that they
> are usually large enough to get a hand through, and swimming a rolling
> boat in surf with a grab loop of almost any length could "window
> shade" a swimming paddler and do serious damage to arms and
> shoulders.

I originally put grab loops on my Chesapeake 17. I hate them. The only thing good about them is they're probably the best way to attach "painter lines" when hauling your boat. Other than that, I think toggles are better in every way. Like you said, there is no risk of entrapment with toggles. Also, grab loops really cut into your hand when you're carrying the boat. I used 6mm accessory cord with a triple fisherman's knot. The knot is about 1 1/4" in diameter and about 3" long, and it still hurts my hand. The other thing I don't like is that they fall down and noisily drag in the water. It's not as much as a problem as a peeve. When I laminated my new paddles, I cut off some 4" scraps from the ends which I will use for nice-looking wooden toggles. (who wants to put an aluminum or plastic toggle on a wooden boat?!)

> As an option, I wanted to consider screwing stainless steel padeyes
> through the deck and into the sheer clamps on my North Bay, and adding a
> toggle with a short cord, much like my Pintail and other open ocean
> "Brit boats" have.

I definitely think toggles area a good idea.

> The question: what does the corporate knowledge of this BBS think of that
> idea? Or, as someone suggested on the CLC site, is it feasible to secure
> screws through the deck and into the top of the epoxy endpour and expect
> them to handle the loads one could expect to see handled by the more
> conventional CLC endpour fitting?

It depends: what size screws are you using. Screws into the endpour will be stronger than screws in the sheerclamps. (unless you used oak or maple for sheerclamps--which I doubt you did!)

How about this idea: run a cord through a hole through the hull/endpour just like you would for a grab loop. Knot the cord right above the deck, and attach the toggle to the cord right above the knot. If you used stiff enough cord, the toggle would stay pretty stationary and not bang into the boat all that much.

Shawn