> Pete, Could you elaborate on what the effects of skin exposure are?

The doctors call it contact dermatitis. It's the same symptom you get from poison oak. Mild cases involve redness and puffiness of the skin, more advanced cases cause itching, and serious acute exposures cause bleeding sores. The irritant can be transported anywhere in the body once it enters the bloodstream, and symptoms can appear in areas that were not exposed to the chemical. Some skin areas are more sensitive than others. Eyelids are in that category, so don't wipe sweat off when working with epoxy. Use a headband or baseball cap before you start. And be careful before using the rest room. You don't want to hear my story about THAT.

> Is it
> not enough to just wash up when you've made skin contact? Is there some
> exposure through your skin absorbing epoxy?

Again, in the small quantities that casual boatbuilders use, the risks are minimal. Nevertheless, there is some transdermal risk. This can be cut nearly to zero through the use of gloves and Tyvek sleeves, available at industrial safety stores. There are also some barrier creams available at the same sources. These are rubbed on like suntan lotion, and temporarily seal the skin pores. I recommend Arretil for epoxy work. It comes off with soap and water but not with sweat, and it really works.

One other precaution has to do with cleanup. Washing in solvent (acetone, MEK, etc.) can carry the irritant through the skin and into the bloodstream. Don't do it. The heavy duty hand cleaners available at car parts stores do a fine job while avoiding that risk. I like the d-limonene based products, commonly called citrus cleaners.

> Also, does a standard issue 3M type of dust mask do anything to filter
> epoxy fumes? Or is this only good for larger particles such as dust raised
> when sanding?

The standard "titty cup" mask only filters out large dust particles, and is better than nothing at all, but is useless for protection from vapors. Even small dust particles can get through. Manufacturers all recommend an industrial-style cartridge-type respirator, either single or dual, and there is a wide variety of cartridges available. These cartridges are color-coded for different exposures, and costs vary widely. There are filters for acids, radionuclides, organic vapors and several other risks, but the one we need is the black one, activated charcoal for organic vapors. A prefilter for dust is a good idea; it fastens on the outside of the OV cart. They come sealed in plastic, and they lose protection with exposure to air. So keep the mask in a big baggie when not in use, and change the cartridge when you can smell the chemical through it.

Again, we need to have a healthy respect for these chemicals, but we don't need to be hysterical about them. Don't let the safety guys sell you full CBN suits with forced-air hoods and oilless air pumps unless you derive enjoyment from spending money uselessly. Gloves, sleeves and barrier cream are all you need. And don't park your common sense outside.