Roger, I built a clc 16 and use it occasionally in the basic sea kayaking course I teach. I have a perimeter line of 5mm (3/16") rope that also goes through the 1" webbing loops for the deck bungies. There is enough slack in the perimeter line to allow the blade and shaft to get under the bungie and line. I think that just a 3/16-1/4" bungie is not going to hold a paddle very securely. But given the overbuilder that I am..., I used 1 1/4" machine screws through the shear clamp to anchor the webbing loops on the aft deck. I figure that having a 5 ft. lever of paddle float isn't the way to see how well the wood screws hold onto the boat.

I must confess that even with the Mariner I've had for 5 yrs I never used the rigging for a paddle float rescue. It seems to me that most rear decks are strongest at the coaming/bulkhead area. I get a little anxious seeing 200lbs momentarily resting on a paddle shaft on an unsupported deck as might happen with the paddle 6" back in the deck rigging. But, that's why the area under the deck has a layer of glass and/or other reinforcement.

Seems that any boat that gets practiced on a lot will still get creaks and moans out of it.

This may not fit in with your aesthetics but I put a 3" strip of 2" grey non-skit tape behind the coaming on the rear deck for rescues and other times when the paddle shaft is being pressed into the deck, this helps keep it in place some.