> TUBE FITTINGS ...

> The idea is to put two holes next to each other and thread the deck rope
> thru, while the holes are backed up below the deck. Say a pc of wood w/
> the two holes slanted toward ea other. After rigging, fill up the holes w/
> sealant.

> Or a 3/8" diam. copper pipe angle cut or 3/8" box sections
> rotated 45deg. and inset into the deck.

Mike:

I, too, have contemplated the idea of recessed or flush deck fittings. Here is another link with some detailed instructions and dwgs.

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/btreecs/Art_Deck.htm

I also had the idea of using pipe elbows as flush deck fittings. I even went out and bought 14 45 degree 1/2 inch elbows. I THEN discovered that to make the angle cut flush with the deck, I would have to cut away all of the inside of the elbow that would hold the line. That is, the pipe is too short and too shallow and too wide to make a neat dip under the deck and back. What I really need is TWO 45s separated by a very short straight pipe.

\ \____/ / ._, \______/ vs \_/

I may go this route, but in any event, I must act soon, launch day is rapidly approaching.

One other option for knuckle-friendly deck fittings is to use a short (2 inches) piece of webbing folded once and screwed to the deck with a grommet style washer holding the loop down. It's not flush, but the webbing would be ok and the screw head could be countersunk into the grommet washer. Probably better to through bolt it with an acorn nut on the inside where knees and toes and shins live.

*******

Here is another page nearby on a related issue of footpeg rail mounting without penetrating the skin of the kayak. I myself completed this part last night. It was harder than I expected to get the blocks to stay in place and glass over neatly. I will post pics when developed. (still in the analog photography world)

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/btreecs/Art_Foot.htm

Ed Valley