Date: 7/15/1999, 12:11 pm
> Unless my search has missed it, there has been no reference to the use of
> steel studs as strongback parts. The header pieces have no access holes,
> and only a small incurved lip on the edges. This would allow them to fit
> flush to plywood sides (or tops) if a shallow kerf were cut. Question is
> whether to use all steel, or combo of steel and wood. Also, the self
> tapping screws used to fasten them would seem to need entry holes drilled
> in the outer piece to insure close fit. Perhaps even flat head screws, to
> eliminate the semi-round heads that could be annoying later. Extensions
> could be easily slipped into the ends for longer boats. Ahoy, great minds,
> any ideas, thoughts, experiences? (Paul: I made sure the paper feed tray
> is full, so have at it?) Should make a strong, lightweight unit.?.? TNX
> thoughts, Scotty
Hi Scotty:
I believe that any relatively stiff pc of mat'l will be ok as a strongback and so your idea of using structural stl studs should work fine. The use of wood (say 5/8" ply) as the sides would make attachment of blocks way easier than tapping them into the sides of the stud - the only drawback here is if you work in cold temps the steel is cold. If you mount the forms as I did, they are best if you have sloppy holes, so you would not need to countersink the strongback construction screws (pic below from strongback approach posted). Any other mounting technique that used the wood as mounting would prob be easier also.
About the only real drawback I can think of is that it is a little harder to shape after the fact. Using wood or aluminum, you only need wood tools.
-mike
Messages In This Thread
- Back to the Strongback
Scotty -- 7/15/1999, 9:38 am- Re: Back to the Strongback
David Binger -- 7/16/1999, 8:26 am- Re: Back to the Strongback
mike allen -- 7/15/1999, 12:11 pm - Re: Back to the Strongback
- Re: Back to the Strongback