> I am in the final stages of assembling my CLC 18lt (second plywod kayak),
> and find that I really like the lines of the boat. The more I look at it
> the more I like it.

John, I'm building a CLC Chesy 18 (first boat) and couldn't agree more.

> I have been hesitating to cut holes in the deck, for
> aesthetic reasons, but naturally I would like to be able to stow gear in
> the fore and aft compartments.

I know what you're going through but go ahead and measure carefully, check the alignment one last time, and put saw to plywood. You'll be pleased with the results. Just take your time.

> At his point, for the back, I have a six inch white plastic deck plate
> installed vertically in the back bulkhead, and might install some netting
> a foot or so in to keep things from sliding all the way back. This would
> not work for the front, which would otherwise take a bigger plate, since
> the front bulkhead is quite out of reach the cockpit opening, and I would
> be unable to use the plate.

> I have read on this site how to make flush deck hatches, but need ideas on
> alternatives to the network of webbing that people use for securing the
> hatches.

I've got no bright ideas here. I plan on using the webbing.

> I would also like to know exactly how the Pygmy hatches differ from the
> CLC hatches, and if the basic design from the Pygmy is adaptable to the
> CLC cambered deck.

Not a clue.

> Finally, the front hatch on this boat, as supplied from CLC, is quite
> small. Does anyone have suggestions/cautions regarding to making a bigger
> hole in the front deck?

I agree on the smallness. I used the rear hatch cover that came with the kit as a template for the front hatch hole. It's a little on the large side but still looks OK. Concerning Nolan's coment on extra braces, I previously glassed the deck so when I cut the hole the cover remained very curved. The braces seemed to hold the correct shape once I got them glued properly.

I also got some advice from Scott Allan of UK-Allan (Allan-UK?) Sails. He said that the hatch brace edges should be about 1/16-inch less than the final hatch radius. This slightly overcurves the hatch at the edges. The over-curve is compressed out when the webbing straps are cinched tight and the extra edge compression helps with watertightness. Scott's hatchs developed incredible grip on the deck (conventional installation), even without the straps.

Hope this helps, and Happy Boatbuilding,

John