cont'd from 6/13:

moving on from deck fittings, I'd like to fool around a bit with flush hatches. Before I start, I'd like to go over again a simple, quick, brainless way to get a perfect hatch seal that accounts for major inaccuracies.

assumes: hatch, dropped flange (say 1/4 to 1/8"), but no seal yet installed.

Lightly hot glue 6 or so 2" strips on top of the hatch, sticking radially out across its perimeter, so that when you put it in place it won't fall into the hole and kiss the flange. Remove hatch and put a layer of saran wrap or other silicone release on the mating surface of the deck ( not hatch ). Run a generous bead of silicone sealant around the underside of the hatch or on top of the wrap. Mush on hatch and gently clamp in place so that all of the strips align it perfectly flush. Clean up excess and go paddle your beater. Next day, pop off the hatch --- you simply won't believe the fit!

The seal will perfectly conform to any humps or bumps in the hatch and/or the flange - Excellent for bozos like me ( a couple of others have written about doing this now also - I can only speak for myself!).

All the next posts on hatches assume this general approach as it has so much flexibility in construction methods.

Flush Hatches:

The Great Search for a concealed, structural and bombproof latch is not over for me yet, but here a few ideas that may amuse or at the best help others find it.

- use typical flush hatch const. process

1) Tubed

Just "sew" it on using a series of 'Tube Fittings'. Aesthetically interesting, very strong, and approaches being structural.

2) Sewed Loops

Install alternate webbing loops in deck and in hatch all around the hatch perimeter. Then just sew back and forth w/ a bungee or rope. Please watch out for my hand as you cinch it down!

see next 8/13