> Hey Michael,

> Thanks for the info - that is quite a site.

> So all I have to do now is figure out the best way to convert 2 foot
> diameter, 20 foot logs into 1/4' x3/4' x 20' strips :-).

> Thanks,

> Hank

What you want is a sawmill attachment for a chainsaw, a sharp chain, and plenty of time, gas and oil. I believe Northern Hydraulics and/or Harbor Freight sell such a device. It is called an Alaskan Sawmill. Here is a picture and description of this device from the Harbor Freight online catalog:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/DisplayItem.taf?ItemNumber=32376

Basically this is a bar that clamps to the chain saw bar. It stay parallel to the chain. You start with a 2x8 tacked to the log to give an initial flat surface, and slide the chainsaw along the length of the log. That clamped on second bar serves as a gauge to keep the chain saw an even distance from your 2x8. You end up cutting off a slab of wood, as thick as you would like. After that you adjust the tool so you can cut planks that are 1 or 2 inches thick. Make them a bit oversize so you can later bring them to a finished size in a planer.

You can make a device like this with some strips of flat steel, some angle iron and some threaded rod. It should just bolt together.

A book I saw describing the process suggested cutting down the middle of the log first, splitting it into two halves, each with a wide flat surface suitable for guiding the chainsaw as it cut additional planks. (I think it may be Chainsaw Lumbermaking by Will Malloff, but I could be wrong. Amazon.com lists this book as out of print and does not have a photo of the cover, so I can't tell.)

Amazon has another book, which I have not read, but hte title sounds like it might be good:

``The Good Woodcutter's Guide: Chain Saws, Woodlots, and Portable Sawmills`` by Dave Johnson List Price: $16.95 their Price: $13.56

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1890132152/qid=935199298/sr=1-1/002-6519781-4737814

Other options are to split the log with wedges, either into halves or quarters, and then turn those pieces into lumber. If the quarters are small enough you might get them through a large bandsaw. Use a bandsaw blade with wide tooth spacing. (With thick wood there is a lot of sawdust that has to be carried out of the cut, and it can only fit in the gaps between the teeth.) If the quarters are still pretty good sized, you have to go at them with the chainsaw.

In my limited experience, using wedges gives an irregular split that wastes a lot of good wood. Using a chain saw freehand to rip down the center of the log is possible, and it wastes less wood than using wedges, but without some kind of jig or guide it is nowhere near accurate. (another way of saying there will be lots of waste.)

Reciprocating saws or Sawzall tools with long sawblades -- like the ones the suggest for using for cutting railroad ties or garden timbers -- are useless. Eventually they will cut 6 inches, which is fine for crosscutting those timbers, but in ripping a 20 foot tree the blades flex, jam with sawdust, and they just cut too slowly.

Once you get planks you do not need to plane them before you rip them into strips. If you bead and cove the edges your router will take care of the rough edges at this time. If you don't bead and cove the edges, you can bring the strips to exact size with a table saw, router, shaper, or sanding disk rather quickly. Heck, this is such small stuff you could do a pretty good job by spending a minute with a hand plane as you fit each strip.

Hoe this helps

Paul Jacobson