> Rob, thanks. Think I'll take you up on the idea of trying white cedar --
> isn't that what better home decks are made from?

In my area (near Chicago) the deck materials are pressure treated woods (spruce pine or fir being common), or Western Red Cedar. I usually sort through the decking material piles to find my wood for strips.

> Wasn't sure about one thing, though -- I believe the dimensions for
> creating the paddle blank are for dried wood -- so if I find a decent 8'
> cedar board, do I just let it sit in the garage a couple weeks to dry
> before having it cut to dimensions? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

If you are buying this from a lumberyard it should be dry by the time you walk out the door. Some wood is kiln dried before it is sold (this is common for construction lumber), other woods are air dried (common for hardwoods). almost always the wood is dried before they sell it, but ask if you have any doubts. Your lumber supplier will be able to tell you. A side note: Some people report that air dried wood is easier to steam bend than wood that has been kiln dried. If you are a glutton for financial punishment, look at the prices they charge for spruce planks for musical instrument builders. Some of this stuff is air dried for a decade before being made into a fine violin, mandolin, or guitar.

If you are getting your wood `green', that is, right from the sawmill you'll want to let it age a bit to dry. Keep it under weights to prevent warping, and allow plenty of room for air to circulate on all sides.

There are various 'rules of thumb' on how long to let the wood dry before using it. All these predate modern electronic tools that can accurately measure the amount of moisture in the board. If you don't have a moisture meter you are guessing, so let it sit as long as you can in as dry a spot, with plenty of air circulation, and hope for the best. Your lumber dealer should have such a meter and will measure the moisture in the wood you buy if you ask.

Hope this helps.

Paul G. Jacobson