> I have the forms left over from my Putz Walrus and I am thinking about
> using them to build a stripper. The main problem I see are that the forms
> are about two feet apart. Is this to far for 1/4" strips? I used
> 3/8" stringers in the skin version and they did not sag until the
> skin was pulled very tight. It should make a nice quick narrow hard chined
> boat.

> Mike

Go for it.

A couple of points. On the PUtz forms some of the chines are recessed into the forms so that the chines are even with the forms, while others are held above the forms by brads or nails. Consider the OUTSIDE of the chines to be the design specs. I f you lay strips over the forms in an area where the chines had been recessed, your new construction will be 1/4 inch thicker. If you lay 1/4 inch strips over the forms which were designed for 3/8 thick chines, you boat will be 1/8 inch thinner. Probably shouldn't make a noticeable difference.

You will have to apply your 1/4 inch strips so they bridge those notches you cut in the forms, or plug those notches with a tiny piece of left-over 3/8 chine material.

The sides of the forms are flat. Straight lines with little or no curve. That should allow you to get by with the wide form spacing without too many mishaps. If you use bead and cove strips they'll probably lock together well enough handle things. If you use square edge strips, get some 3/16 or 1/4 inch staples and use them to secure the strips to each other halfway between the forms. OR, stay with your longer staples and get a few 10 to 12 inch long scraps ( ends of strips are fine) that you can secure midway between forms. If your strips run horizontal, these would go vertically. Staple one of these on the inside of your first strip, then as you add strips you staple them to this scrap, as if it was a form. When the glue sets, pull off the scrap and yank the staples.

He has no forms for the deck. You'll have to make deck beams, and use those as forms. Not a big deal. Since you will be pulling these out, you can cut some out of 3/4 inch plywood or particle board. A few drops of hot melt glue should hold them in place on the finished hull until the first strips are glued. After that the strips themsleves keep things aligned. for the deck, lay your strips to overhang the hull a little bit. After it is attached you can trim back the overhang in a few minutes with a plane, or just some aggressive sandpaper.

Since you have the notches already cut, why not pop in a chine at the joint between the floor and the sides of the hull? or, use one to join the top to the deck as is done on some stitch and glue models.

While we are talking stitch and glue: Why not build this boat in that fashin instead? Scarph up some 18 to 20 foot lengths, lay them on the forms, with a chine in the notches. You can probably rip your plywood into 9 inch to 12 inch widths for the sides before scarphing, and wider widths for the floors.Trace along the chine to give you a cutting line, and trim the panels you'll need. Tack them to the forms and secure the joints with an occasional tie as needed between forms, or you can tack the plywood panels to the chine. Use some screws carefully and you can back them out after you tape the outside seams. 1/4 inch lauan should be cheap and dandy.

I'd put in a few bulkheads, particularly one just behind the cockpit, to give this a bit more crossbracing.

Give it a twirl and show us some pictures.

Paul G. Jacobson