> Go for it.

> A couple of points. On the PUtz forms some of the chines are recessed into
> the forms so that the chines are even with the forms, while others are
> held above the forms by brads or nails. Consider the OUTSIDE of the chines
> to be the design specs. I f you lay strips over the forms in an area where
> the chines had been recessed, your new construction will be 1/4 inch
> thicker. If you lay 1/4 inch strips over the forms which were designed for
> 3/8 thick chines, you boat will be 1/8 inch thinner. Probably shouldn't
> make a noticeable difference.

The Putz forms are notched for the keel and the stringers on either side of it. The chine and sheer are not notched. I was planning on puting the strips directly on the forms. This will make the beam about 1/4" narrower throughout, and the depth to sheer about 1/4" inch deeper. I will also lose the two 3/8" rubrails, making the kayak 1" narrower at the sheer at 21".

> You will have to apply your 1/4 inch strips so they bridge those notches
> you cut in the forms, or plug those notches with a tiny piece of left-over
> 3/8 chine material.

I was planning to fill the notches with leftover 3/8 strips. I would probably put in a temporary keel juts to help make sure everything is lined up correctly and to blend my stems nicely into the keel line.

> The sides of the forms are flat. Straight lines with little or no curve.
> That should allow you to get by with the wide form spacing without too
> many mishaps. If you use bead and cove strips they'll probably lock
> together well enough handle things. If you use square edge strips, get
> some 3/16 or 1/4 inch staples and use them to secure the strips to each
> other halfway between the forms. OR, stay with your longer staples and get
> a few 10 to 12 inch long scraps ( ends of strips are fine) that you can
> secure midway between forms. If your strips run horizontal, these would go
> vertically. Staple one of these on the inside of your first strip, then as
> you add strips you staple them to this scrap, as if it was a form. When
> the glue sets, pull off the scrap and yank the staples.

I was thinking about using vey light clamps (binder clips) in between the stations. While stapling to the forms.

> He has no forms for the deck. You'll have to make deck beams, and use
> those as forms. Not a big deal. Since you will be pulling these out, you
> can cut some out of 3/4 inch plywood or particle board. A few drops of hot
> melt glue should hold them in place on the finished hull until the first
> strips are glued. After that the strips themsleves keep things aligned.
> for the deck, lay your strips to overhang the hull a little bit. After it
> is attached you can trim back the overhang in a few minutes with a plane,
> or just some aggressive sandpaper.

I was planning on a very flat deck, raised only near the cockpit, mainly in front. Maybe similar to the Pygmy Queen Charlotte. Cleaning this up with my pullsaw, a plane and sandpaper would be easy, I like that idea, it should work well with how I plan to strip it.

> Since you have the notches already cut, why not pop in a chine at the
> joint between the floor and the sides of the hull? or, use one to join the
> top to the deck as is done on some stitch and glue models.

I might do a sheer clamp I'm not sure, I want this to be a very light kayak, shooting for the 30 lb range, but if I miss it is no big deal. I have a very strong Pygmy for heavy use.

> While we are talking stitch and glue: Why not build this boat in that
> fashin instead? Scarph up some 18 to 20 foot lengths, lay them on the
> forms, with a chine in the notches. You can probably rip your plywood into
> 9 inch to 12 inch widths for the sides before scarphing, and wider widths
> for the floors.Trace along the chine to give you a cutting line, and trim
> the panels you'll need. Tack them to the forms and secure the joints with
> an occasional tie as needed between forms, or you can tack the plywood
> panels to the chine. Use some screws carefully and you can back them out
> after you tape the outside seams. 1/4 inch lauan should be cheap and
> dandy.

I was originally going to do it as a tack and tape, but just purchased plans for a Redfish Spring Run for my wife. I wanted to practice working with strips before I do her "pretty boat". I may still do this later, I like the way the Putz kayak handles, it is VERY responsive.

> I'd put in a few bulkheads, particularly one just behind the cockpit, to
> give this a bit more crossbracing.

I was planning on putting in bulkheads by copying the shape of a couple of the forms and placing them right where the forms were.

> Give it a twirl and show us some pictures.

> Paul G. Jacobson

I also plan to add a little more rise (about 2"?) at the bow to help in bigger water. It has a fairly straight sheerline as designed and I like a higher bow.

Thanks for the tips and encouragement. I think it will be quite the fun kayak.

Mike