I built a strip canoe with referring to this BB you'll find some good help here.

I used a Stanly Sureform to plane and fair the strips. It is sort of like a plane except it uses a metal plate with holes cut in it like a cheese grater for a cutting blade. The replacable plate comes either flat or rounded. I used the flat for the outside of the canoe hull and the rounded for the inside.

After hours of sureforming, I then used 60 grit sand paper on a quarter sheet Makita finishing sander. For the inside, I took a piece of styrofoam about 3/4 inch thick and cut it to the square shape of the sander. Then used a razor (dovetail) saw and shaved off two of the corners of the styrofoam (the corners next to the sandpaper clamps) to make a rounded pad. When I cut the sandpaper sheets into fourths I made two of the squares 1/8 inch long and that left two 1/8 inch short. The short sheets still fit the sander without the styrofoam pad for the outside sanding of the hull and the long sheets fit over the styrofoam pad for sanding the inside. The sand paper needed to streched tight to hold the styrofoam in place. The styrofoam also seems to slowly sand away under the sandpaper. I used two to sand my 16 foot canoe.

The 4 sided paint scrapers are great to knock off the glue drips prior to planing, but I didn't like the way they chewed up the wood when I tried removing wood with them.

Scrapers did not remove the wood quickly enough to use for fairing. They are the absolute best thing for removing epoxy drips, bubbles and dust bumps before sanding the epoxy. I used a rectangular one and learned to flex it to fit the inside cure of the canoe.