Date: 9/7/1999, 1:56 am
> If you find it, patent it quickly! ;-) People who want a more durable
> finish generally go with a polyurethane paint. There are 1-part and 2-part
> polyurethanes, 2-part being much harder but also more toxic to work with.
> 2-part polyurethane clearcoat might work, but I don't think it has UV
> inhibitors in it. Has anyone gone this route?
> Also, I once re-finished a VW Baja Bug using a 2-part epoxy primer. It's
> available in a variety of colors, including white. Has anyone tried this?
> Dean I have experience in urethane clearcoats as found on the basecoat/clearcoat finishes on automobiles. ALL the UV protection is in the clearcoat. The paint is simply a thin layer of pigment used to provide the colour, it has no UV inhibitors at all. This allows the manufacturers to control costs.(Cost is in the pigment) I couldn't find info on the polyurethane clears but as they are a finish coat I would assume the same holds true for them. Also polyurethane paint has outstanding UV resistance. I have sent for the info and will keep you posted.
As for using an epoxy primer, all the ones I have seen also have no UV inhibitors. Epoxy or any primer for that matter is used for adhesion only and is usually not even sanded. A surfacer is then applied which is sanded to give a smooth surface to which a top coat is applied. Epoxy primer adheres extremely well to fiberglass and is one of the best choices when painting a kayak, but it must be topcoated. The nice thing about epoxy primer is that almost any paint will adhere very well to it.
There are also 100% solids polyurethanes available. I don't know if they come in a clear or as a pigmented coating only. I have never used them nor even seen them, but believe the results would be outstanding if the application was not too difficult.
As for applying the urethane or polyurethane, (they are both EXTREMELY hazardous) why not prep your boat for them and then take it to a bodyshop and have them spray it. The results would be far superior to a brushed on finish and safety would not be an issue. Also it is very easy to repair clearcoats. Check with the shop before hand to see what grit they recommend as a final sand.
Hope this helps. Ian
Messages In This Thread
- Clear scratch resistant finish
Bobby Curtis -- 9/6/1999, 8:28 am- Re: Clear scratch resistant finish
Ken Katz -- 9/8/1999, 10:56 pm- Re: Clear scratch resistant finish
Bobby Curtis -- 9/10/1999, 8:48 am- Re: Clear scratch resistant finish
Ken Katz -- 9/16/1999, 9:37 pm- Re: Clear scratch resistant finish
Ian Johnston -- 9/10/1999, 10:41 pm - Re: Clear scratch resistant finish
- Re: Clear scratch resistant finish
- Re: Clear scratch resistant finish
Jeff DeJongh -- 9/7/1999, 5:42 pm- Re: Clear scratch resistant finish
Bobby Curtis -- 9/7/1999, 6:03 pm
- Re: Clear scratch resistant finish
Pete Campbell -- 9/7/1999, 12:27 pm- Re: Clear scratch resistant finish
Ian Johnston -- 9/8/1999, 3:04 am- Re: Clear scratch resistant finish
Bobby Curtis -- 9/7/1999, 5:59 pm- Re: Clear scratch resistant finish
Peter S. Mclaren -- 9/12/1999, 3:16 pm- Re: Clear scratch resistant finish
Bobby Curtis -- 9/13/1999, 8:37 pm
- Re: Clear scratch resistant finish
Pete Campbell -- 9/8/1999, 2:28 pm- Re: Clear scratch resistant finish
Bobby Curtis -- 9/8/1999, 7:09 pm
- Re: Clear scratch resistant finish
- Re: Clear scratch resistant finish
- The Holy Grail
Dean Trexel -- 9/6/1999, 6:17 pm- Re: The Holy Grail
Bobby Curtis -- 9/7/1999, 8:49 am- Re: The Holy Grail
Ian Johnston -- 9/7/1999, 1:56 am- Re: The Holy Grail
Dean Trexel -- 9/7/1999, 4:12 pm- Re: The Holy Grail
Ian Johnston -- 9/8/1999, 2:46 am
- Re: The Holy Grail
- Re: The Holy Grail
- Re: Clear scratch resistant finish
- Re: Clear scratch resistant finish