Thank you both for your encouragement. I'm still a few months from starting this project (still looking for that free bandsaw). I would be interested in trading wood but I will need some time so I can figure out just how much of this stuff I actually have. I would like white cedar to contrast with the dark color of my pine (similar to walnut). I will definity go with thinner strips. I read a bulletin "1/8in or 3/16in in cove and bead?" Goltz seemed to have a good idea by using a triple bead and flute shaper. He does not think this bit will need sharpening until 100th boat. I think maybee around the 75th but what the hell I may try it. This is a great site. I'll keep in touch about the wood and thanks again.

Matthew

> If I were a deceitful SOB I'd gleefully tell you this stuff is awful, and
> that the only proper way to dispose of it would be to ship it to me for
> disposal. Unfortunately I`m not that deceitful, and I, too, am green with
> envy.

> Is free lumber worth it? Heck yes ! ! !

> I wouldn't worry about the natural resin in the wood. That might be a
> bigger concern with freshly cut wood. But in your well aged wood the
> conditions should be different. After being out in the sun and weather for
> so many years it has either already weeped and oozed out of the boards, or
> it has oxidized, polymerized and solidified inside the wood. The epoxy
> should soak in just fine and bond to the wood fibers.

> For its size your pine will be a little 'tougher' than cedar, ( I'd say
> 'stronger', but that raises the ire of the engineers who read this) so you
> can get away with thinner strips.

> Using 3/16 inch thick strips will automatically cut 25% from the weight of
> the wood used in your boat -- and bring that component close to the weight
> of 1/4 inch cedar strips. I've seen a 20 year old canoe made with 3/16
> pine and the owner assured me it had been used a lot, and is still
> durable. I expect a kayak would fare the same. For that matter, kayaks
> built with thinner cedar strips (1/8th inch) and several layers of
> fiberglass cloth on both sides are also reputed to be very durable and
> light weight.

> Considering the tight grain structure, I'd strongly consider going with
> 3/16, or a sliver less. If you have surface planer, rip the stuff to a bit
> more than 3/16, and plane it to a bit less.

> One of the nicer things about using 3/16 inch thick strips is that you get
> a few more from each board you rip. That means those 24 foot lengths will
> provide a few more of those convenient full-length strips. Of course
> you'll cry more when you see how much of those boards gets turned to
> sawdust, so you'll want to work with a bandsaw or the thinnest kerf
> circular saw blade you can find.

> You get any more wood like that and want to sell, swap or share you are
> looking at a large audience.

> Best of luck with your boat

> Paul G. Jacobson