> I've decided to build the 18.5 Walrus. Got some questions: I've got a 21'
> fir 2x10 from which I'll get only a limited number of strips. Which
> stringers demand the most strength? Second, does anyone know price
> comparisons for canvas and the alternative coverings? Third, what are the
> sources for canvas and the alternatives? Thanks, Tom

I found that the keel needs to be the strongest then the chines. It is a toss up between the other floor stringers and the sheer. When stretching the canvas for the deck, I pulled the sheer in in between the deck beams, this has been reinforce with a mahogany rubrail, so it is not a strength problem now, just in the building process, whereas now the floor stringers take more abuse. Mine were made with western red cedar decking 2x4's, when ripped to 3/8 x 7/8 they become quite flexible. I can flex the bow and stern down 3 inches just tying the kayak dow onto my truck. This flexiblity makes it a very lively boat in the water.

I used #10 14oz. canvas for mine, $50 for the whole kayak. I bought it a a tent and awning shop, they had a polyester that was similar strength, but much lighter for about the same price. You should get better prices at a tent and awning shope than a marine/boat supply store. As soon as you attatch marine or boat to the name, the price triples, but the quality MAY double.

Check out the places Paul listed, Dyson's nylon is supposed to be excellent stuff. I used Eloast-o-Seal and Snow-Roof to coat mine, the cost was $17 to $18 a gallon and I used a 1/2 gallon of each. It dries for light use in a few days, but doesn't get its full strength for at least a month, maybe two.

If you think you will ever use a spray skirt DO NOT use the Putz cockpit design, even if you round the corners it does not hold a spray skirt well. I recommend making the floor beams 'V' shaped instead of triangular, to maximize interior space (read foot room).

It is a fun kayak, both to build a paddle.

Mike