> Paul,

> Thanks for your extremely constructive and thought provoking ideas. I am
> certain that I will use some of them.

> I wasn't going to but now I am planning on it.

> I have looked at his book and may make a run to the library or bookstore
> to glean some more insights.

> The side panels will come out perfectly sized from this method.

> I like it.

> I'll line up the bottom panels with each other and the top panels with
> each other ala Pygmy. This will give a nice clean appearance.

> It would be very easy to eyeball it, any imperfections will be easily
> filled with thickened epoxy when gluing them on.

> I wouldn't put the floor pieces in, they are one of the biggest problems
> with the Putz design, they really limit the space inside the kayak. I will
> probably leave the floor stringers in at least the cockpit area for extra
> strength there.

> I will probably glass the entire thing for extra abrasion resistance on
> beaches.

> I wouldn't skip that, but i appretiate you pointing it out for others who
> may be reading.

> Good point, but it my still be prone to a puncture on the floor. But,
> 1/8" luan with one coat of 4oz. glass vs. #10 canvas.... The canvas
> will give more but it is more easily damaged by sharp objects.

> That is my plan.

> I will use plywood for the deck. It will look very similar to a Pygmy
> Queen Charlotte deck, in fact the whole kayak will look a lot like the QC,
> but will be narrower and have less rocker. Construction methods will be
> quite different and their design was copied from the West Greenland kayaks
> which is where Skene got his design for the Walrus (now called a Putz)

> Actually I still have to do a lot of this on my Putz. I am using the Pygmy
> Thermarest as a backrest and have just the floor slats for a seat, I find
> it very comfortable, but it needs hip and thigh braces. One of the deck
> beams is used as a foot brace. I can easily brace against the underside of
> the deck beams and cockpit with my thighs but it is not too comfortable, I
> just need some thin padding.

> I'll try.

> Thanks again, Mike

Hi! Wow. It all sounds so well thought out! I would like to know how to deal with the ends.In the Putz book there are stem timbers used to form the bow and stern, but if going the plywood route, how do you form the ends? Sorry if this seems to be an obtuse question... I was wondering how this might be done if using a 2x4 as a beam to hold the forms, given that the bow and stern are different heights above the floor (as described by Putz). Are the stem timbers needed? It looks like they would add some (unnecessary ??) weight to the plywood boat. Thanks for any answers. Kelly