Ashley, i have used the method that Shawn describes below and find it to be most versatile and user friendly,besides there's all those different colors to choose from. I used to install the tabs in shear clamps, in those boats with shear clamps but now install everything inboard an inch through the plywood. Suggestions,suggestions: after drilling holes for screw, hang boat upside down, masking tape over hole. cut little pieces of glass tape, saturate bare wood in hole, wetout piece of glass tape over hole, when epoxy is hard redrill holes and mount hardware (minus masking tape of course) using larger than normal washers and there you go. The glass tape is probably unneccessary but the saturating of the bare wood is necessary, sealing but also so that the compression of the nut doesn't crunch the wood. On the under side of the deck you can install the same kind of loop under the washer and nut but also with some webbing glued directly to the underside of the deck so that you can have all that stuff neatly held under the deck. I find nothing wrong with using nylon padeyes, it's just where to use them, either side of bulkhead is a good place.

you can lace bungies under the decks in front and back compartments or under the deck behind your seat, it's a good place to put paddling clothes that you don't want in a dry bag but don't want sitting in a puddle. There are some different kind of bags that can serve as a glove compartment under the front deck with room for pump under deck as well. I've glued down some loops right in front of my seat on the floor so that anything else can be bungied down and secure during wet exits. I've become partial to small dryboxes, as they hold a perfect sized meal without getting squished. More than you ever wanted to know