> Ross, You've gotten a lot of good advice, and if I may, I'd like to add a
> little tid-bit if I may. Paul is correct about the belt sander being the
> best choice if you still want to take a crack at smoothing out the waves.
> Because of it's long surface you will get a better cut, and just don't
> bare down on it. The sander will do the job, just let it float on the
> surface and guide it with both hands. Also, redwood is one of the softest
> woods there is, and it has been my experience that you should never use
> more than 100 grit on the sander. That is gonna remove all the wood you
> need and then you can go back with a lighter grit on the ROS to clean it
> up. Two things I learned over the years was that with the
> "Flat-Grain"(EVIL) material you don't want to work on one spot
> for any length of time. Your best technique is to work a large area, with
> long strokes and NEVER work in one spot trying to level something. With
> long strokes, you don't get any too deep in the soft wood and with good
> clean, sharp belts it cuts everything about even. When you go over it with
> the ROS, do it in long quick strokes as well.

> To get rid of most of the highs in your surface now, use the flash-light
> and check out the surface as before. On the high spots take a pencil and
> laying it down sideways and shade the high areas. Then, if you can, circle
> the No-No areas where you definitely do now want to cut and then, go back
> to the belt sander and work the pencil marks off. It works best if you let
> the belt cut towards the grain. When the pencil marks are gone, do it
> again. You probably won't get it perfect, but, you will get the worst of
> it.

> You've already discovered that the "Verticle-Grain" ( Good ) is
> much easier to work with. It is always best to do the bulk of your cutting
> with the belt sander ( 100 grit or higher ) and then spend as little time
> as possible with the ROS cleaning up. It's a smaller surface and tends to
> ....tilt ( for lack of a better word ) into the soft grain. When doing
> cabinet work, I almost never used anything but 100 grit belts or pads on
> anything. The orbital cuts smoother than the belt sander and makes a
> plenty smooth surface. It's a proven fact that going too fine on any
> surface ( although it feels good ) can be detrimental to finishing, as it
> closed the pores? in the wood and finishes do not adhere as well. Oh yeh,
> there are those who will say that you need to use 0 grit cause of the
> glue, but, that should be done with the scraper, as much as possible.
> Samding the glue only loads up the belts and 80 grit eats wood way too
> fast. Sorry that's awfully long winded. I have to get off the computer
> real quick as we are having a wind storm and the lights are flickering.
> Hope all that does you some good. You probably had it done before i got
> done writing it, bit, heck, I love to talk anyway. More Food for Thought

> Rehd

Man, I gotta start proof-reading. That should have read circle the No No areas where you do "not" want to cut, and also, should have read, some folks like to use "80" grit to cut down the glue. O.K., I'll shut up now. C-Ya Rehd