> Mike,

> I'm using clear recycled red fir. Had a 21' 2x10 lying around with some
> rot/damage. Had to rip it on the radial arm saw because my shop isn't long
> enough where the table saw sits but I could go in one door and out another
> with the radial saw. Got 5-21' strips, 1-17', 2-13', and 1-12'. I cut the
> strips 1/2"x1" and they're quite flexible. I don't know if I
> need to be concerned about flexibility as the boat's intended use is for
> small local lakes. As a novice (I''ve never been in a kayak) I don't even
> know what flexibility does for you. One other question: There are some
> pitch pockets--mostly dry. I plan to fill with putty and seal with shellac
> before finishing the frame. Do you think I'm on the right track there?
> Thanks, Tom

Tom,

I've heard it said the flexibility means faster. I notice the responsiveness of the kayak, it is much easier to turn than other kayaks. I just like the feel of a skin kayak in the water, it absorbs wave action.

Your plan sounds good. I just sealed mine with oil (linseed oil, turpentine, and kerosene). Shellac should be fine. Be sure to sister any weak areas with another piece, you don't want to take off the skin to repair the frame before the skin needs repairs.

It sounds like you are on the right track for doing it the inexpensve way. I didn't price the bronze tacks but they probably cost less than monel staples($20 pack).

I put a link to a Skin Boat FAQ by Skip Snaith below.

Have fun, it will be a very rewarding experience.

Mike