> Paul, something you said didn't sound quite right to me, so I wanted to
> ask if you could check what you wrote before Addison starts cutting his
> strip and winds up with the same problem Ross recently encountered on his
> Wee Lassie. You said:

> Ideally you would want the final strips to have a grain pattern with the
> growth rings roughly parallel to the wide side. If you can obtain that by
> ripping and resawing your stock, then do so.

> I was under the impression that one wanted the strips to have growth rings
> perpendicular to the wide side. Which is why the flat-sawn lumber commonly
> available is so good for cutting strips. I took a look in Nick's book and
> saw a diagram on page 36 that seemed to confirm this. I found similar
> advise in Ted Moores' CanoeCraft book.

> Mike

Gee, that is very interesting. I've always tried to cut mine the other way! I get enough with the grain running diagonally through the strip, too, which would seem to happen often enough just by the natural changes in the radii of the growth rings on a wide plank.

Unlike Ross I have no had any problems sanding these strips, but then I have a fondness for using my beltsander -- a tool that has never found a grain pattern it couldn't handle!

I looked at a picture in David Hazen's book and it shows the wood being cut the same way you describe. I'll scan a few sketches tomorrow and try to explain why I cut mine the other way -- if I can think up some good reasons between now and then!

As it stands now, though. my way has worked for me, and your way seems to work, too, so maybe it doesn't make a lot of difference! I think sanding ease, millinge ease, flexibility, and the angle at which the strip has it's maximum strength are issues to consider, though. This could get interesting and eudcational.

Paul G. Jacobson