> A FRIEND AND I ARE BOTH GOING TO BUILD A STRIP-BUILT KAYAK-- WE SEEM TO BE
> HAVING A PROBLEM FINDING A 1/4" ROUTER BIT FOR BOTH THE
> "COVE" AND "BEAD". WHERE WE WORK, THE COMPANY CARRIES
> BOTH "BOSCH" AND "AMANA" BRANDS BUT THE CATALOGS
> DON"T SEEM TO HAVE WHAT WE NEED. HELP????????????

Dan:

You already have plenty of good advise and dealers, so you have probably already made dicisions on where to buy and what. I just thought I'd add, that in all of the years I've done woodworking, I don't recall anyone having a bit come apart with hte exception of a carbide tip coming off. That's about the equivilant of being shot with a .22 if it hits you. BUT, if you stick with the good quality equipment, and lots have been recommended, and don't completely abuse it, you won't have any problems. On the routers, either will work on the table. On the shank size, with cutting 1/4" strips or anything in softwoods, the 1/4" shank will do just fine. If you decide to do something in hardwoods, in the 3/4" or thicker, then the 1/2" shank would be recommended. ( I.E. an OGEE bit, or straight cutter, or larger.) Even then, you can get away with a 1/4" shank if you make several light passes. Take a look at your router and see if the Collet is removeable ( threaded on or something like that ) Most routers that have come out in the past few years have interchangeable collets available and you can use either a 1/4" or 1/2". The 1 1/2 hp. router will usually be enough for either size, but, again, if you are doing thick hardwood materials, with a 1/2" shank bit, you'll probably have to make multiple passes. Don't know if I've added anything pertinent, but, I got a chance to see myself talk. :) As for the salesman and all the scare stories, I'd say he was getting a bonus or commission on his sales. All the accidents I've ever heard with a router were do to total mistreatment or misuse. Good luck and most of all, have fun!!

Rehd