Stan, Like the other responses, it took me a few tries before I really liked one, and now every new one I make seems better than the last. I start with a standard 1 1/8" full round about 8' long from Home Depot, rip it down the middle, hollow most of the inside, and epoxy the halves back together with a strip of fiberglass tape down the center. A strip of kevlar would probably be even stronger. I use a 3/8" bead router bit to hollow the inside except about where the shafts will go into the stainless steel ferrules (that I mail order from CLC) and where the paddle blades will go. You can cut down the diameter of the shafts to fit the ferrules using a 3/4" straight bit and a router table. I use a band saw to cut the paddle end of the shafts so that the paddle blade will make a slight convex curve. I've experimented with various paddle sizes and shapes, you will have to do the same until one feels right. I use 1/8" door skin for the paddle blade and put 6oz fiberglass on both sides after I epoxy them to the shafts. I then use a spoke shave and orbital sander to make a slight oval at the grip part of the shaft. They will break at the ferrule if someone sits on it wrong while getting in the kayak, but no one has broken one even while paddling against strong wind or doing a high brace while surfing.

> I'm thinking about making a few kayak paddles. Basic approach will be
> along the lines of the one in Nick Schade's book, but with smaller blades.
> I would like some ideas on how to make them strong enough for regular
> touring but as light as possible. Wouldn't a composite be a better
> approach than plain wood? What about using a light wood core such as pine
> or cedar but wrapping it in fiberglass or carbon fiber to achieve the
> necessary strength. Carbon fiber is light and very strong. It is also very
> expensive but you wouldn't need much for a paddle. What weight of cloth
> would you recommend? How many layers? Has anyone any experience or
> opinions to share?