> Step 1/2. Put a 1/8"X1/8" (or so) rib running around the
> underside of the hatch cover, just in from the edge so that it rests on
> the center of the hatch lip. When you remove the hatch after the silicone
> is dry, it would have a groove running around the middle of it that the
> rib would fit into. Water would have to do a U-turn to get into your
> hatch.

> To build the hatch perfectly flush, though, you would have to recess the
> lip a bit to compensate for the rib.

> Another idea just struck me: You could router a small groove in the
> underside of the hatch! Then when it presses down on the silicone, it
> creates a little vertical rib that would mate with the groove. Or you
> could router the groove in the recess and apply the silicone to the
> hatch... now where's that asprin--I'm getting a headache...

> Just a thought (and a half.)

> Dean

If you use a router or cut a groove you'll compromise the wood/glass - so assuming a recessed lip of say 3/8":

Cheap white glue a 1/4" x 1/4" pc of cardbd ( or 1/4" rope or anything long and flexible up of the same size) to the middle of the recessed lip. Cover w/ vaseline and saran wrap and push on the hatch BUT cinch it down so it depresses about 1/16" BELOW the deck.

Next day peel off. Remove the strip by soaking in hot water and now put silicone on the recessed lip. Saran the cover and cinch down so its perfectly flush.

Next day you've got a 2 part lipped and grooved seal. You could do this ad infinitum.

-mick