> In other words, make sure your template always touches on the outside of
> the kayak. Not quite touching on the inside of the shear clamp is better
> then not quite touching on the outside.

I'd suggest re-reading Frank's post and then Jim's again; and I'd suggest that, although it may not be obvious, they're saying different things.

If you carry the template line on the inner half of the clamp but then effectively extend the outer edge tangentially at the mid point --- i.e., "straighten" the curve from that point to the outer edge --- the mating face of the clamp and the deck will be in plane, and provide the best seal and adhesion. In other words, what Chris showed me in his shop _after_ I'd rounded the entire surface of the clamp, was to try to straighten the bevel outside the mid portion of the clamp as an extension of the curve to provide the best mating surfaces. Hey, I'm a pilot, and I talk with my hands --- this is the best I can do. But I did read something on CLC's web site about this, and I'm sure it said it better.

Jack