If the line of 1/16" holes are close enough, you can simple push the saber-saw blade through them without too much effort. Then with the saw fully seated, start the cut.

Ross

> Hi Dean

> This is a shaky situation at best, and definately a "two handed"
> job. I did my first on a little sewing cabinet many years ago and really
> made a mess. I tried it with one hand and couldn't control the blade.
> Bounced about three times.

> I did it like was posted a few days ago, and drilled 4 or 5 little pilot
> holes on the line you're cutting. 1/16th " was suggested, but,
> whatever the width of your bit would do. The holes give you a really soft
> spot to punch through and it's not likely to bounce. When you turn the jig
> saw over to cut, put both hands on the saw and press down on the front,
> with the blade up off the work. Start the saw, slowly line up the blade
> with the line of holes and gently lower the blade so that it touches the
> holes. Keep the pressure on the saw base, so as to eleminate the
> vibration. Let the saw do the work. Once you have punched through. turn
> the saw off, straighten it up, lay it flat on the surface and you're off.
> Once you've done it a couple of times, it gets really easy, but, don't you
> believe it. ALWAYS treat it like the first time, cause when you think
> you've got it whooped, that's when it'll jump up and bite you. :) You're
> doing something with this saw that it wasn't designed to do, but, if done
> right, it's about the best tool for the job.

> When you are cutting thin plywood, and this is just my idea, instead of
> using the plywood blades, I have often gone to the metal cutting blades,
> as they have smaller teeth with less set in them. Makes for a little
> slower cutting, but, also makes for a narrower kerf. And in this case,
> slower is better :)

> Rehd