> The spoke shave is a great tool, and both will work for the kayaks. What
> you're buying is a glorified cabinet scraper, with a handle. Good tool,
> but, an extra expense. Some just like it cause it's esier to use. ??? If
> you're working on bigger projects and removing lots of material, it's
> probably the better tool. In this case though, it might be considered
> over-kill. Not a thing wrong with it though.

> Rehd

A metal spokeshave is a small-handled plane, not a scraper. It has the same blade geometry of a handplane and you sharpen it the same way. Most woodworkers hold inexpensive modern spokeshaves (and planes) in very low regard and greatly prefer the old antique Stanley's. I like the old Stanley #151 and the #53 and #54 adjustable-throat models. The antique will cost about the same or a little more than a new one (unless you want a perfect collector's example) but the antique will have a better casting, narrower throat, smoother sole and better blade. Check out "The Electronic Neanderthal" http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~alf/en/en.html for a good selection of antique tools. If you want to go with a new Record or Stanley, then you will have much better results if you put a Hock blade in it http://www.hocktools.com / (better steel, thicker blade to help close that wide throat).

A wood spokeshave has a blade bedded more like a miniature drawknife. Most traditionalists seem to prefer these and they are reported to perform better than the metal shaves, especially on end-grain. My limited experience with these is that they are more tempermental to use, but my Conover shave probably just needs tuning.

A spokeshave can be adjusted to take a deep cut but I find they work better when adjusted to take a fine shaving. You usually push a shave away from you but you can pull them towards you if you prefer. You will get the best results if you skew them (keep them at an angle to the work), just like a plane or drawknife.

Take some time to learn how to sharpen your edge tools. I use water stones to flatten the back and maintain the bezel but usually a few strokes on a leather strop is all that is necessary to maintain a razor edge.

For making Greenland-style paddles I rough-out the shape with a drawknife or crooked knife, switch to the spokeshave to smooth and refine the shape and then scrape or sand to achieve the final finish. I use a flat-soled shave for most of my work but a round sole comes in handy for some tasks such as smoothing the transition between the shaft and paddle blade.

Greg Stamer