Hi Paul;

I have 1-1/2 trash bags of sawdust left and a nearly full wet-dry vac! Actually, when I was working on the paddles I generated a fair amount of really fine wood flour in a few different colors. I was planning to use that stuff if needed. I should save some of the ripping sawdust as well - Thanks!

Paul, I'm up in the air about C&B . . . I see the pros and cons discussed here, and I'm still unsure. My preference would be to do stapleless butted joints, but I'm going to have to experiment a bit and see just how time consuming that gets. I already have the C&B router bits, I ordered them a few weeks ago. I believe my hull design (Georgian Bay) is simpler than (i.e.) the sexy Guillemot, and it may be easier to strip. Time will tell . . .

I didn't have featherboards on the radial arm, but I did have a block clamped to the fence right in front of the blade. You can see the 3 clamps in the pictures. I just couldn't physically get it close enough to stop the chatter. The board would jump around on the oufeed side and splinter as it went along. Each successive strip near the end got harder to cut, until at 1" it was downright dangerous. As I said, I think a table saw would do better at this stage.

Yes, I've seen a few posters discussing starting with 2x4 material, and I like the idea of scarfing to the needed length beforehand. But if I can continue to find deals on the "all sides finished" 3/4" stuff, I only have to push each stick through the saw once . . . ;-) My helper, a fellow my age was dead after our marathon cutting session - - And I was the one pushing the boards through! Admittedly, pushing sticks is easier than 1x12 boards.

Thanks for your help, You can bet I'll have more questions as this project unfolds.

Best Regards, Spidey