> Hi Lee,

> The ethafoam that I have has cells that are .025" or smaller in size
> and it is rated @ 4 pound density. It is compressable and returns to 90%
> of thickness quickly with the final 10% returnes in a minute or so.
> "Firm white plastic with some give". Kinda hard to describe how
> something "feels" in text. As far as shaping, the ethafoam cuts
> well on a bandsaw and easily with a sharp knife. It resists sanding - just
> gets soft and fuzzy without really changing shape. Contact cement works
> well but the surface should be cleaned first [I use naptha]. I think it
> would make a comfy seat. I am going to try "hot wire carving"
> some ethafoam with a copper wire attached to a Weller soldering gun and
> "finishing" the surface with 80 grit sandpaper.

> I have some 1/2" thick blue "sleeping bag underpadding"
> that has a more rubbery feel [and is much softer] but I am not sure what
> it is - I would have guessed that it is an isocyanide [sp?]/ polyurethane
> based produce.

> Nobody has ever handed me a piece of foam and said "that is
> minicell" so I can't compare to it.

> Hank

I have read that you do not want to hot wire ethafoam because it will give off very toxic fumes. It is not like polystyrene or polyurethane which can be hot wired with ventilation. Is it an isocyanide? Maybe it's the cyanide thats so harmful!

A knife cuts as well as a hot wire and a rotary sander or coarse grit sand paper can shape ethafoam relatively easy.

Ethafoam is not a closed cell foam and will absorb water and take long periods of time to dry. It would be best to seal the outside surface with something.

I'm not very experienced with minicell foam but I think it is closed cell and does not absorb water.