I do my stitch and glue boats this way too but i wire together the deck-hull joint rather than fiber tape then fillet and tape the inside of the seam, remove the wires and glass the outside of the hull then deck (or visa-verasa) overlapping 1-2"

I've also refinished kayaks and done the same thing.

If you precoat the deck and hull with epoxy you should have little problems With tape residue. You will have to take extra care with smoothing the inside ot the hull and deck. Cove and bead will help you here too because you will need todo less smoothing.

> I believe this is the exact method described in the instructions for the
> Pygmy Coho.

> First the deck is glued on around the edge with epoxy (use plenty of
> strapping tape as mentioned in the thread to help line up the edges --
> it's not tape over raw wood, though, since the top of the deck is already
> epoxy saturated. After you take your tape off, reglue over the spots where
> the tape was.)

> Then sand the glued edges to create a rounded profile, so the cloth hangs
> better. Lay cloth over the deck hanging about 2 inches over the sides and
> epoxy. And then filet/tape/glue along the inside seams. To reach up to the
> stem and stern, Pygmy suggests using using a 4-foot stick with an epoxy
> syringe attached. After all this is done, you cut your hatches from the
> top, in Pygmy's method. The whole thing worked pretty well for me, though
> instead of the 4-foot stick, if you're cutting hatches you can reach the
> ends better through the hatch openings.

> saturated Let's supose I've got my hull already fiberglassed (in and out),
> and my