I came across this different ripping technique in the magazine Workbench March/April 2000 issue, page 74. This may well be known to all of you, but it wasn't known to me, and I rather like it for its simplicity and safety. I'll do my best to describe it in words, but the magazine uses pictures.

This is a "backwards" ripping technique. Whereby the main piece of wood rides against the fence, and the strips fall off.

On the miter side, the magazine has you remove the miter gauge completely. Using scrap wood, make a runner that fits into the miter track on the saws table. Screw a block of wood down onto that scrap in the track. You'll want this block of wood to clear the saw blade by about 1/2". Then use about a 1" screw and screw it into the side of that block of wood on the side of the saw blade. You will adjust your srip width by turning this screw in or out.

Once you've got the strip thickness to where you want it, slide the unit forward and clear of the saw blade by several inches. To lock the unit in place, run a screw down through the skinny strip lying in the miter gauge grove of the table (the first piece of wood I described) *ahead* of the table top. This allows the unit to slide, but only so far, and keeps it clear of the saw blade.

Place your piece of wood on the saw table, against the fence. Slide it over until it contacts the screw, and lock the fence down. Turn the saw on, and run the board through the saw. Repeat.

I really like this technique because you get to really use the fence. As in full length supporting and bracing. This really helps in keeping things straight and preventing curves in the board, or thin spots in the strips. The strips should fall clear as well. You don't need to work as much with feather boards, and those you do use, you don't have to readjust for each cut. The only adjustment that needs to be made with each cut is to move the fence over until the board contacts the screw.

If this is all known to you guys, sorry for wasting your time. But it wasn't known to me, and it really should help. The magazine with its picture would make clear everything I haven't made clear. They also show some very good and somewhat unusual push blocks on the previous page, page 72. As well a zero clearance saw blade insert. They are all "duh" ideas, but I'd never thought of them.