> Greg and Erez,

> Thanks for your responses. Greg, I have a copy of your drawing that I
> downloaded last summer. I didn't keep track who originated it. I've looked
> over the pictures on your site and still have the same questions.

> 1) It appears that you may use a set screw to hold the cable. Do you use a
> wooden screw or machine screw in a female threaded insert or something
> else? How is it holding up? Does it keep the cable held tight?

> 2) If I can't find any suitable fittings for the pin, I'll probably glass
> it in as you have. Hell, CLC uses a wooden dowel pin and glasses it in
> permanently. I guess the pin doesn't take that much abuse.

> 3) Several builders have responded on the question on cable selection from
> a previous e-mail I sent out, including Bob Hysen, Erez, Vaclav @
> OneOceanKayaks, Greg and others. The best recommendation seems to be 19x1
> cable with 3/16"id airbrake hose.

> 4) On the long section of hose from the skeg box to the controls, water
> must be able to leak out at the external controls. No big deal here. But
> what did you use at the end of the second hose beyond the control knob
> below deck to keep water out? Did you use a fitting or a glob of silicone?
> Or perhaps the amount of water that would enter here would be miniscule.

> Erez, I'm tracking down the article in Sea Kayak as you and others
> suggested. However, I just received an e-mail from one builder who didn't
> like the article, so I decided to open my questions up to the world. I
> need to get to the skeg in a couple of weeks and didn't want to wait to
> get the article to find that it may not answer my questions fully.

> Thanks to all and I look forward to your continued guidance. Thanks,

> Gary B.

I just bought the article over the weekend and have to concur that it leaves some room for improvement.

1) use the skeg itself as the form for the skeg box. Bulk it up a bit w/ a layer of card and saran, then lay up. For heaven's sake's don't use a 3/4 in board cut to the profile as the sloppy box form!!!!

2) the method of cable attachm't makes some sense. Basically a blob on the cable end placed into a hole on the skeg.

3) And istead of glass, make the skeg outa strips - shaped and covered w/ glass for a little class!!

4) the axle is just a 1/4 in bolt thru the box - like NFG, eh - like leaks much?? Instead use the bolt but put it thru a 1/4in tube - washers on the i/s - washers on the o/s and you can cinch that sucker down and still have play in the skeg.

-mick