: Funny,I was going to mention the sheetrock compound, but deleted it. I was
: afraid that the paint might pull it out in flakes, chips when a boat is
: released, as they can stick pretty good. My second reservation was that is
: does not flex, so the mold would have to be perfectly rigid, which can be
: tough to do, especially when it comes to popping a boat (or dropping the
: mold). It might not stick to bare masonite very well, but one could sand
: it to rough it up. Even with those reservations I think it realy has place
: in boatbuilding, especially if one was constructing a plug. If i was doing
: the mold myself I would be tempted to use it a little.

: If you do use it, the dry mix kind is far stronger than the redimix. The
: drymix comes with working times, just like epoxy. It sands soooo much
: easier than the premix, is lightweight and it can be applied very thick
: 1"+ without cracking and very little to no shrinking. All in sharp
: contrast to the premix mud in my experience. Just remember to clean up
: before it sets!

Good info. My take on this use of mud is that 0 - 20% will lift off for ea yak pulled, but that it's no relative big deal to patch up the mold and sand off the yak. If the f/g drywall tape is used, you could hot glue a bead right down the ctr or just off set to help keep in place while a bit on flexing is going on. But the big deal is that its cheep, cheep, and fairs out easy,easy so I would be tempted to give it a go. Would it be any stronger/flexible if white glue was used vs water.(Nah, too expensive)

-mick