I used drywall fairing compound to fair my fiberglass seat mold. I sealed it really well with clear single-part polyurethane.

I'd be a tad concerned about the released boat pulling chunks of that stuff out of the mold, but a single ply of 4-oz. glass covering the entire mold, and then painted with tooling gelcoat would make a super durable mold.

Consider that the 4-oz. and tooling gelcoat will be more expensive than repairing the mold, but will also save a lot of time in the long run, especially if you build 3-4 boats.

Shawn

: I agree w/ both david and bart: the mold needs to be supported - by female
: forms.

: The joints need to be faired. What about using dry wall compound? cheap as
: hell and sands well. You should use the drywall 'tape' that is ACTUALLY
: f/g so that the jts are slightly reinforced. Use part of a plastic bottle
: as the scraper to make a constant radius fillet.

: the shiny surface needs to be sealed 1st to use a release. Probably any paint
: would work. And obviously paint the jts.

: For the foot bumps, cut ovals in the forms, and say drape burlap sacking (or
: any cloth - towel?) into the holes wetted out w/ major glue. Let set up
: and cover w/ torn newspaper dipped into white glue like paper mache. Sand
: flush and it may work. Maybe tape a blown up balloon very slightly
: protruding into the hole to set the burlap shape first. Use the drywall
: compound on irregularities.

: And when you'r done, you could actually stitch it together w/ some glass
: strands pulled from the 10oz cloth. Leave em in and then do the seams and
: they'll disappear.

: -mick