: Thanks Mike, that's even simpler yet. I'm just wondering now - the only piece
: carrying any load when you push hard on the pads is the stop block at the
: front end of the rails, because the piece at the back end just keeps the
: rail from floppin' around. How much surface area does this front piece
: have to have, glued to the hull, to carry that amount of shear without
: ripping loose? And to rout or carve a "finger" on this piece to
: fit into the channel to hold it in place, the wood's gonna have to be
: tough to keep that finger from breaking off when you push.

If there's a stop block at the far end and a pin at the front, you have 2 pts of attachm't just like usual. This stop block should be solidly glued or attached to the side rails to maximize security - ultimately needs to be strong. After the 2 pcs of wd were in place, I would still 'bed' the rail in place w/ some filler, epoxy, glue, silicone or whatever - this'll minimize racking. At the far end, there are some possibilities: the wood block w/ a 1/4in hole for the track, a wood block w/ a blob fitting into the track, a pin(bolt, screw, nail) going from one side to the other, with the end of the track rebated w/ a file to accept(taper rebate to jam in place), or at the hardest but most secure a bolt going from one side to the other(assuming yak curvature will allow - draw section 1st)

The whole pt is that a more space saving approach can still be achieved w/ the same peg security.

-mick