Morning Rehd

Well I confess, I do agree with 99% of what you said. I build alot of cabinets and custom wood work as well. I buy most of my material as S3S, and at 13/16ths if I'm using 4/4 stock. I find that most of the time there is so much tension release that even if I use the one forest blade that really leaves a zero saw kerf edge, I can't use the piece unless its real short because it is warped. Especially for door stiles and rails. So my proceedure has always been to cut things oversized, straight line it again, rip it one more time just a 32nd over my finish size and then make one final pass through the jointer. I have the Hitachi planer-jointer F1000A, the 400lbs. model. So it makes for slick work to my finish sizes. My table saw fence is the Beisemeyer. Sweet fence.

So after all that, since this is a kayak forum,:) I DO think you are correct to set up everything perfect if you are cutting 1/4" strips for a kayak but if anybody decides to make a kayak out of 2" wide strips of rock maple, I suggest you open up the back of the fence a little bit. :)

Thanks for the interaction Rehd. I think I will close the back end up and see how it works for me. Been doing it the other may for so many years but always wanting and willing to learn. Thanks John