I did the large football-shaped patch on the outer hull (6-oz. over 6-oz.), and I can see some defects that I think are caused by starvation -- I didn't seal-coat the wood. Maybe I didn't have enough epoxy on to begin with. The problem didn't become visible until after the fill coats were done. But I think it went well wet-out-wise. I need to attend the Newfound Rendezvous and some of the experts' opinion on what the cause was. The 3-foot-long overlap in the center of the inner hull wetted out fine with no bubbles.

Wetting-out and filling the large areas went fine -- only a little bead of epoxy on the very edge accumulated. I did have the problem of runs and drips when taping the outer shear of my Outer Island this winter, which meant a bit of extra sanding this spring. It was the fill coats that caused me problems, not the initial wet-out, because I was trying to fill with as few coats as possible. It still took 3 coats. I should have either covered over the wet epoxy with plastic wrap (as I learned after-the-fact) or masked off the surrounding area.

I don't know of a thickener out there that wouldn't make the epoxy tinted or opaque, so I think that way would only be good for a painted yak.

Raka epoxy is a bit lighter in color -- less amber -- so it doesn't darken the wood as much. I built my Outer Island primarily of white cedar, and the Raka kept it nice and light-colored. I wanted the boat to be as light as possible because a dark kayak is less visible on the water. I also used 2-part poly clearcoat that is clearer than varnish. I've only paddled in calm conditions from sandy beaches so far, so the hull is still prisine -- I'll keep everyone informed as I start to scratch it up and see how it compares to varnish...

Dean

: hi Dean,

: raka sounnd like the hot wet out resin, but what happens on the vertical
: surfaces and can you lay out multiple layers of glass at once?

: Does it work ok or do you have to thi(xotrope)cken it?

: -mick