: Morning Rehd

: Well I confess, I do agree with 99% of what you said. I build alot of
: cabinets and custom wood work as well. I buy most of my material as S3S,
: and at 13/16ths if I'm using 4/4 stock. I find that most of the time there
: is so much tension release that even if I use the one forest blade that
: really leaves a zero saw kerf edge, I can't use the piece unless its real
: short because it is warped. Especially for door stiles and rails. So my
: proceedure has always been to cut things oversized, straight line it
: again, rip it one more time just a 32nd over my finish size and then make
: one final pass through the jointer. I have the Hitachi planer-jointer
: F1000A, the 400lbs. model. So it makes for slick work to my finish sizes.
: My table saw fence is the Beisemeyer. Sweet fence.

: So after all that, since this is a kayak forum,:) I DO think you are correct
: to set up everything perfect if you are cutting 1/4" strips for a
: kayak but if anybody decides to make a kayak out of 2" wide strips of
: rock maple, I suggest you open up the back of the fence a little bit. :)

: Thanks for the interaction Rehd. I think I will close the back end up and see
: how it works for me. Been doing it the other may for so many years but
: always wanting and willing to learn. Thanks John

Been wanting a Beisemeyer fence myself, but, won't take it unless it comes with Delta Unisaw, 10", 3hp, 220v, 3belt pulleys and all the extensions. Oh yeh, and on a steel frame with solid 4" casters. :) Let me know if that works for you on the fence. I'm wondering, how did you get the Beisemeyer fence to lock down without pulling straight? I've used a couple in shops I've worked at and they are a pretty positive locking system. Very accurate.

O.K., back to kayaks.......

Rehd