Don't sweat the tortured strips -- they'll all be locked together by the time the stripping is done. I had a few tortured strips on my Outer Island where I had to make an S-bend of some deck strips down about 5" over the 2' span of the cockpit. They went from the high part over my thighs to a very low aft deck. Everything stayed in place when the forms were removed.

Wider strips will save you some stripping time, but will add to fairing/sanding time. An octagon is closer to being round than a hexagon is. Your corners will be a little bigger with 1-1/8" strips than with 3/4". Make sure to keep with small strips around tighter corners like maybe the shear and chines.

Dean
: Finally got the cedar strips cut and milled (B&C for the hull) and finally
: have the forms all lined up. Last night I put the first 3/4" wide
: strips at the sheer line. No poblem. Then I attached one 1-1/8" wide
: strip on each side. This wide strip was a little stiff to bend, but the
: staples on the first strip below held and no wood creaked or snapped and
: the sheer strip remained fair. My question is: how much will the hull
: deform when I have finished stripping and remove the forms? It seems like
: there may be some residual "memory" in the wood to go back to
: its natural state (straight). Is it the fact that I'm glueing it the way I
: want it that will make it stay? Have others used 1-1/8" wide strips
: successfully? I like the width so far because it appears that it will
: speed up the hull stripping.

: Thanks for the help.