: Absetootly! You can leave a square edge and bevel it later, after all the
: stripping is done and the deck and hull halves are 'glassed. I took the
: recommendation in Jay Babina's instructions and used a half-width strip on
: the deck that was pre-beveled to ~25 degrees. This was way more bevel than
: I needed, but the outside edge was very tight and I just filled the bevel
: on the inside with thickened epoxy prior to taping the inside seams. But
: if you hand-bevel it to match perfectly, as you described, you will have a
: tighter gap that won't show light thru the crack. I hand-beveled all my
: strips, and in a few places where I over-beveled, I can see light coming
: thru when the hull is parked on edge with the sun behind it.

: Dean

I couldn't get the rolling bevel to work very well for me. I decided to lay the first strip with the bead still on. I had previously ripped the cove off some strips to make them narrower. The narrow cutoff strip(1/8") with the cove and square edge I had ripped off became my rolling bevel. The cove of the narrow strip fit the bead of the sheer strip perfectly and I was able to twist the little strip parallel with the floor all along the sheer strip. I glued it in place. The deck was done the same way, narrow strip flat edge laid on the hull sheer flat edge with cove facing up, ready for the deck sheer strip. This method worked out great for me. After fairing and sanding the little strip blends wih the sheer as one.

Larry C.