: I didn't use cove-and-bead and am not familiar with a resaw blade, but since
: you're starting in tomorrow, I thougth I'd better respond as best I could
: given what I've gleaned from this bulletin board. Consistent strip
: thickness is key to getting good coves and beads. If you can get good a
: reasonably smooth cut surface and maintain table-saw-like thickness
: consistency, you should be O.K. You'll just have to cut a few strips, set
: up the router to put in the cove since it's the more difficult part, run a
: few through, and see whether you can maintain the thin edge of the cove.
: Set it up so that the cove is slightly narrower than the strip thickness
: so that there is a tiny flat left on either side. If it's knife-edged,
: it's more likely to get broken during handling.

: But most likely this consistency will be tough to maintain with a bandsaw and
: you will have to cut a bit oversize and thickness-plane both sides. I used
: a bandsaw for my strips and they varied quite a bit -- maybe +1/8 / -1/16
: on 1/4". I didn't have a router or shaper, so I planned to hand-bevel
: the strips anyway.

: Hope this helped a little,

: Dean

Thanks for your input Dean. I guess I'll just go out to my shop and make one rip and see how good it looks. If it doesn't look too good, I'll cut the strips a little thicker and send them through my planer to get exact thickness. How smooth does the strips have to be before you cut the cove and bead? Would sending the strips through a sanding machine be an overkill and just a waste of time and effort?

Thanks again to everyone. This is a great learning experience for me.

John